Practical Seamanship
updated August 6, 2005

Simplified instructions on some basic safety methods.

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============================= Seamanship =============================

In Jack Coote's book "Total Loss" he describes forty yachting disasters and analyses their casuses. He states that the top three determinants of seaworthiness and survivability are first, the crew; second, the gear; and third, the design of the hull. This says that although the H-28 is famous for her extremely seakindly hull, the more important item for safety is "the nut that holds the wheel" and that it's well worth it to spend a bit of time learning basic seamanship.

Reefing, Anchoring, and Man overboard recovery. These are three basic elements of seamanship which are necessary for safety, but which most people don't know as well as they could or should. These are probably needed about once a year, which is just seldom enough that people don't get enough practice, so they don't have the confidence to use them when they are needed. As a result, people generally find other, less effective ways to cope with the situation.

The best advice is to practice reefing, anchoring, and man overboard at least once a year, preferably in gentle weather. This way you will get experience and work out the bugs in your system. If you've never done it before, then you will be able to learn how under easy conditions.

This month I've a added a page on reefing, with a few photos of Lark under reefed main. Anchoring and man overboard will come in future updates.

============================== Reefing ===============================

Reefing is the best and first example of a little more knowledge making a much safer and more fun day on the water. On windy days, many people give up and motor, or carry too much sail, or an ineffective combination of sail. The afternoon is spent pounding into the waves under power, or under the wrong sailplan, and it's uncomfortable and not a lot of fun. It's also less safe, because the vessel and crew are less able to handle her or get to port quickly and safely if the wind strengthens.

This is really a shame, since the H-28 hull shape and sailplan is one of the easiest, safest, and most comfortable designs to beat to windward in a gale, with the right sail combination. Her beautiful Herreshoff hull shape, with her fine bow, knifes into the waves without pounding, and throws all her spray across the foredeck and coachroof, leaving the cockpit remarkably dry. Her generous beam amidships helps her stand up to the strong winds and carry enough canvas to drive her hull in those conditions.

All that's needed is to configure the right sailplan to drive her hull to windward effectively. As it happens, there is no one "guaranteed one-size-fits-all" combination. The amount of canvas should be appropriate to the amount of breeze (not surprisingly). In winds of say, 20-30 knots, when it has become too windy for full sail, it's tempting to either carry on under full sail and tough it out, or simply drop the main and sail under jib and mizzen. Many people won't reef the main because they feel it's too much trouble, or the reefing gear doesn't work well, or they're out of practice and don't want to risk it. But it's definitely easier and better if you go to the trouble to reef, and here's why:

Carrying on under full sail is not the best. When overcanvassed, the boat heels too much, which makes the sails less efficient and drags more beam through the water, loses speed, and makes more leeway. In a race several years ago, I was a hundred yards behind a Pearson Ensign, beating into 25 knots of fresh breeze, with neither of us gaining on the other. I lashed the helm (I was singlehanding), lowered the main, tucked in one reef, rehoisted the main, and passed the Ensign twenty minutes later!

Dropping the main and sailing along under "jib and jigger" is also not the best. You have about half the sail area, which is not enough to power through the large waves, which tend to slow or stop the boat often. Moreover, the tall narrow sails contribute to heeling, which slows you down as mentioned above. We learned this the hard way ten years ago when beating home in a strong breeze (about 27 knots again). Narragansett Bay is a narrow North-South body of water, so naturally the prevailing winds are either northerlies or southerlies. We were still somewhat new to the boat, so we tried out the "ketch advantage" of simply dropping the main. We sailed along easily under the reduced canvas, but every time we encountered a big wave we would pitch up and down and lose most of our speed. Friends of ours in a 24-foot sloop, also headed home, under a reefed main and a small jib, quickly caught up to us from leeward, went swiftly past us with a friendly wave, and in a matter of minutes were a hundred yards to windward. She got home in half the time it took us.

By far the best solution is to reef the mains'l. You don't have to reef the jib or mizzen until the wind gets stronger, although a small jib helps. See the photos below. The principle reason for the advantage is that the sail area is spread out in a lower, wider shape. The keeps most of the sail area, which is needed to drive the hull through the waves, while reducing the height and leverage it has to heel the boat over, which would slow her. For instance, dropping the main would result in half the sail area and half the heeling force. But one reef in a sail reduces the heeling force much more than it reduces the area, since the sail area is lower down and has less leverage to heel the boat.

When you reef, if you're beating to windward, it's very important to haul the luff and foot of the sail very tight, and trim the jib in tight. This is necessary to point high enough to make good progress to windward. This was shown to us again last October, when we were sailing in company with an another 28 footer. On Saturday we sailed out together in 12-knot moderate breeze, at roughly the same speed. On the way back on Sunday, beating home in a 27-knot strong breeze, we both reefed but they were short-handed and couldn't get their main outhaul or jib sheet tight enough. After an hour they were a half-mile behind us, and they dropped sails and motored into the heavy head seas. We still got home ahead of them.

Note that dropping the main is still the best way of dealing with a sudden squall, when there isn't time to reef and when the winds may go above 40 knots, when reefed main, jib, and mizzen are too much canvas. Dropping the main is also great for maneuvering slowly under good control in a tight harbor or when picking up a mooring.

Tips for reefing well:
NUMBER ONE: practice reefing your sails on a light air day so you can learn how, get practice, and work out the bugs in the system.
NUMBER TWO: make sure your reefed sail's luff and foot are very very tight. Wrinkles in the luff rob most of the sail's windward ability, and it will seem as reefing didn't really help much. A tight foot results in a fairly flat airfoil, which works much better close-hauled in strong winds.
NUMBER THREE: Make sure you haul the jib sheet in good and tight, or it will have a baggy shape and you will be sluggish to windward. (Two and Three are not so important when sailing off the wind.)
NUMBER FOUR: You don't have to lace up the bunt of the sail along the boom. The sail will set just fine if the foot is tight, although the loose bunt of the sail may catch and hold a bunch of water from spray.

If you're interested, here's the math. For one reef, using the bottom 20% of the sail's height: The luff is 80% of full sail, which is good for windward work. The sail area is douly reduced to 64% of full sail (= 80% of the luff length X 80% of the foot length). Yet the heeling force is triply reduced to 49.5% (= 64% of the area X 80% of the height of the center of area). This principle applies for sloops, ketches, yawls and schooners although the percentages may vary somewhat.

Click the images for the full photos.
From left to right: full sail with Masthead jib (154%), full sail with Forestays'l, and the rest are with reefed main and forestays'l.


============================= Anchoring ==============================

Anchoring is a good thing to know how to do. You can rest during strong winds or if you're short-handed, and more especially you can keep you craft from being driven ashore if you're disabled or if your engine dies. You can also explore beautiful coves away from the crowds and be independent of marinas if you wish.

The problem, as with all of these skills, is lack of practice. But it's far better to work out the bugs in the system before an emergency, rather than during one! So go out an a quiet day and practice, even if you just anchor for five minutes and then move on.

Some tips:

ONE: use enough scope, that is, let out enough anchor line. Anchors work when the pull is more horizontal, so their fluke can dig in. They don't hold well when the pull is more upwards, naturally, that's how you pull it out of the mud.

TWO: Check to see if it's dragging. Put your hand on the anchor rode and feel for vibrations. You can usually tell if the anchor is dragging. A second trick is to pull in a few feet by hand. If the rode is springy and resistant, and you can pull the boat forward slowly, it's probably holding. If you feel it give in little irregular motions, it's probably dragging. Another sign is that the boat is not lying head-to wind.

THREE: Remember to leave room for your boat to swing if the wind should change direction, so you don't hit other boats, the shore, or nearby rocks.

FOUR: If the anchor is dragging, first try veering more scope (letting ut more rope). If that doesn't work, weigh it and set it again. This is called "sighting the anchor." When it's up, check to see that it's not fouled, i.e., tangled in it's own rope. Also make sure that the flukes are not clogged with seaweed, grass or clumps of mud. Danforth-type anchors are susceptible to that, they can get a clump or weed or a small rock between the flukes and stock. Then if they flip over, the flukes can't swing down and they'll ski across the bottom.

======================= Man Overboard Recovery =======================

This is probably the least-practiced of the three. But just one practice attempt with a floating cushion should provide a sense of urgency, since it is much harder than it looks. I was once washed overboard in the Gulf Stream, in five-foot seas, and it took the longest time for the boat and my shipmates to come back, find me, maneuver, and get me aboard. A head is very small compared to the waves, and is hard to spot. Later we decided we should practice, and tied a hat to a ball of styrofoam about the size of a man's head. We lost four hats in four tries. Here are the main points:

ONE: Whoever first sees the person fall in should hail "MAN OVERBOARD!" as loud as possible. Don't experiment with other phrases such as "person overboard" or "Man in water." The hail needs to be the clearest and most familiar so that all who hear it instantly know what's going on and how serious it is. If someone is down below, busy at some task, a non-standard hail may not penetrate and get his attention.

TWO: It's very hard to find a person in the waves, even 50 yards away, so one person on board, usually the first one to see to person go overboard, should have no other job but to keep his eye on the victim in the water and never look away.

THREE: Maneuver back alongside the MOB (Man Over Board) to pick him up. If you are in a sailboat, come about, leave the jib backed, retrace your path, and slowly come alongside, keeping the MOB on the leeward side, where you will drift toward him, and it will be easier to get him aboard on the lower side. If under power, remember to put the engine in neutral as you approach.

FOUR: Getting the MOB back on board can be very difficult. If you are a 130 pound wife trying to "land" a 230 pound husband you have a problem. If you can't get him aboard, then get a line on him to keep him alongside and call for help. Loop the line around his chest, under his arms, knotted in front, and make it fast to a cleat on deck. You can buy a Life Sling (ahead of time, that is), which has a sling to go around his chest as just described, and a block and tackle (rope & pulleys) to give you enough strength to hoist him aboard. You can also use a halyard and halyard winch. You can also lead two ropes under him and back on board while he is lying horizontally, and pull on the outer ends of both to "roll" him up the side and over the rail. This type of purchase is called a "parbuckle" and was used to roll barrels on board a ship.

FIVE: Wear a life jacket to increases you chances of survival if you go in the drink, especially if you are knocked on the head during the trip over the rail.

When to wear a life jacket:
when you're alone on deck
at night or in fog or reduced visibility
in heavy weather
on the foredeck or out of the cockpit
if you're under 12 years old

When you can go without:
when you're down below
when you're at anchor in calm water near land
when you're ashore

Note that these correspond to situations either when you're more likely to go overboard (e.g.foredeck) or when it's harder to recover you (e.g., alone or at night).

=========================== Chafing Gear =============================

(Coming soon)

======================== Collision Avoidance =========================

(Coming soon)

===================================

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