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=========== IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT E-MAIL ADDRESSES ===========
To prevent spammers from harversting your e-mail address, I have replaced the "@" with "_at_".
If you wish to e-mail any of the people listed below, you'll have to delete the "_at_" and type in a "@".

============== Custom Cradle, Bowsprit and Cutter Rig ===============
Subj: H-28
Date: 2/9/2006 11:32:38 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: ckessler_at_triad.rr.com (Carl Kessler)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi

I have just committed to taking a 1948 H-28 from the Chesapeak Bay area to North Carolina for restoration. I am looking for the best possible drawings to pre-build a craddle to sit her in for shipment. Also I am very intersted in finding a set of drawings for the H-28 with the bow sprint as I want to add this in the refit. Can you help me to find these drawings

Thanks
Carl Kessler

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subj: H-28 drawings
Date: 2/16/2006 9:43:57 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: ckessler_at_triad.rr.com (Carl Kessler)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi

I have just purchased a 1948 H-28 which I am bringing from Maryland to North Carolina for a complete refit. I am trying to find some pictures and drawings of a H-28 with a bow sprint. I want to add this to mine and change the rigging to a larger jib or a cutter rig. How can I find these?

Thanks
Carl

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subj: H-28
Date: 2/22/2006 11:33:28 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: ckessler_at_triad.rr.com (Carl Kessler)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Theo

I have ben reading your website for about three weeks getting all the info I can. I have just received a 1948 H-28 for restoration over this summer. I want to add a bow sprint to the boat while restoring and have not been able to find any other drawing than what is on your website of a modified H-28. What I am looking for is what size and how it is mounted into the frame of the boat. I was hoping you or someone else could tell me how to find better drawings or if some of the members with a modified would be so kind as to send me pictures and info I would be very grateful.

Thanks
Carl

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi Carl,

The only drawing I know of showing a bowsprit is that shown. It may be from Rudder Magazine, but I don't know if the magazine had dimensions with the drawing. Perhaps you can use a ruler on the drawing and get an approximation close enough to work well. Also, you might try to contact the holder of the plans to see if that sheet is also available. On the other hand, L. Francis Herreshoff may not have ever drawn up plans for the bowsprit, but just the drawing, with the intent that someone could engage a yacht designer to work out the exact proportions and dimensions.

L. Francis Herreshoff had a reputation for being a bit curmudgeonly about changes to his designs. He remarked that a design was a very finely tuned balance among many interrelated factors, and that if you changed one you would have to corresponding adjust many of the others or the design would be out of balance. That's a good reason for asking a yacht designer to confirm that changes in the bowsprit drawing wouldn't need other adjustments. For instance, adding a bowsprit would move the center of sail area forward. If your H-28 has enough weather helm, it could handle the change nicely, perhaps reducing the weather helm just enough to improve her saling qualities. If your H-28 is well balanced, then adding sail area forward could result in a lee helm, which would be very undersirable. It might be a good idea to see how she sails with her current rig before changing her.

Lark is very well balanced in light airs and moderate breezes, but in a fresh breeze on a reach she has a very strong weather helm. In her case a bowsprit might unbalance her in light winds, but help in strong winds.

Perhaps another tack would be to look at the plans of modified H-28 types that have added bowsprits, such as the Bermuda 30 and the Far East 29, and use those as examples for added guidance. You might also get an idea for the approximate right size from some of the related designs in his book "Sensible Cruising Designs." In particlular, look at the design for 28' Solitaire, which is very similar to H-28 and has a sloop rig, but no bowsprit. See the books page. This book is usually available at used book sellers both on and off the internet, and often on ebay, too.

As far as construction details, if there are no LFH construction plans for the bowsprit modification (I know of none), then you could look at LFH's many other designs to see how he joined, fitted, and strengthened bowsprits in general. There are many such designs with construction drawings showing bowsprits in "Sensible Cruising Designs" (see above). Designs in this book similar to H-28 that have bowsprits are: 23' Prudence, 36' Neria, 71' Landfall, 41' Albacore, 55' auxiliary ketch, 33' Araminta, 38' Joann, 64' Mistral, and the very beautiful 71' Tioga II.

The best possible drawings for pre-building a cradle would be the plans, assuming the shape of the H-28 you are getting was built accurately, and hasn't lost or changed her shape since. The plans should be available from Mystic Seaport (see the plans page) or in his book "Sensible Cruising Designs" (see above).

Good luck in your adventure. I really wish I had solutions that were cheaper than "go buy the plans" or more precise than "go look at plans of similar boats"! But then, although being a pioneer is scarier, that makes it more fun and rewarding. If it turns out that there isn't anyone out there who can show you the way from his experience, then perhaps you can tell us how it goes and be the guide for those after you....

Good luck,
Theo

===================== Mast Height Measurements ======================
Subj: H28 Masts
Date: 1/25/2006 10:18:22 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: johndumke_at_earthlink.net (John Dumke)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi again Theo,

Can you please tell me Lark's mast heights from the deck and cockpit? The masts I have were tabernacled and I want to be sure I'm pursuing masts that will work.

Much appreciated,
John
Westport
Subj: H28 Masts

---------------------------------------------------

Date: 2/10/2006 9:59:30 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: johndumke_at_earthlink.net (John Dumke)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Theo,

I need your advice regarding masts for my H28. The main snapped this fall and it's time to replace or rebuild them. I need to get moving on this to be ready for launch this spring. As always your advice will be greatly appreciated..

Thanks for your time.

John
Westport

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi John,

Lark's mainmast is 30' 6" from the top of the deck (not the cabin trunk) to the top of the mast, and the bury (from the deck to the heel) is about 3' 7". Her mizzenmast is 23' 10" from the top of the cockpit sole to the top of the mast, and the bury is about 12". That's within an inch or two, the tape measure kept dropping in the snow and it is Cold out in the back yard! (We just had a New England Nor'easter blizzard yesterday.) Lark's cockpit sole is 1 inch or so above the LWL and may be an inch or two different from the plans, since she was modified to have a self bailing cockpit. Exact original measurements can be had in the plans which should be available from Mystic Seaport (see the plans page) or in L. Francis Herreshoff's book "Sensible Cruising Designs" (see the books page). The book is usually available at used book sellers both on and off the internet, and often on ebay, too.

Regards,
Theo

======================= Advice on Used Masts ========================
Subj: H28 Masts
Date: 1/23/2006 8:45:57 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: johndumke_at_earthlink.net (John Dumke)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Theo,

I located Lisa Orban, the woman with the '62 H28 built by Far East who has the masts for sale. She sent me pictures of them and unfortunately they have been painted white. I want to put them on my '51 North American built H28, Varuna, which is true to original design. The masts are longer than need be, they have no hardware but appear to be in good shape. Can you advise me about Far East masts, i.e. what wood are they made from, glue, etc. What should I expect to pay for just the sticks?

As always, I appreciate your advice.

Best regards,
John

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi John,

I don't know many details about the building practices or quality of individual yacht builders in any part of the world. Some builders in the Far East (I don't know about Far East Yachts in particular, though) in the 1960's used casein glue, which doesn't last as long as Weldwood glue. All I know about their construction, longevity, and price is in my reply to Lisa Orban on the for sale page.

Regards,
Theo

================== Varuna Sailing off Westport, CT ==================
Subj: H28 Hull
Date: 1/8/2006 8:47:00 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: johndumke_at_earthlink.net (John Dumke)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi again Theo,

Here's a photo sailing off Westport, Ct. I love this boat!

John

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------

Beautiful!

======================= What to do about Rot ========================
Subj: H28 Hull
Date: 1/8/2006 8:39:17 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: johndumke_at_earthlink.net (John Dumke)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Theo,

Thanks again for the information regarding New England boat builders. I pulled our new '51 H28 out of the water after a wonderful long season - mid-November. Now I must begin repairs and restorations. Some time back in the 90's she was cold molded with 3 layers of mahogany veneer and West System epoxy, then skinned. After getting her on land I began to poke around the hull and found some rotten areas where water had been sitting between the bilge and outer fiberglass. I've since opened one of these areas up which proved to be rotten all the way through the planking. She has been a fresh water boat all her life. I have a feeling this is just the beginning.

What has been your experience in these matters? What should I be looking for? Where do I begin?

As always, any advice or assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Best regards,
John

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi John,

The only sure way to evaluate your boat is by hiring an experienced and competent marine surveyor. The best advice on repair would come from an experienced and competent wooden boatbuilder. Since I am neither, the following observations are just to help you get started.

Fresh water rots wood, salt water preserves it. Rot is a fungus, and salt and copper are fungicides. One of my older wooden boats has leaked since I was a wee lad, and her bottom is sound. A boat whose hull doesn't leak, but whose deck does, will collect fresh water in her bilge and rot. Favorite places for rot are the mast step, the deck and cabin trunk corners, behind and under the ice box (condensation), and areas that are enclosed nad have any moisture or condensation. (For this reason it's best to have tons of ventilation during winter storage.)

Since your boat was in fresh water, water trapped between the outer fibreglass skin and the enclosed wooden parts of the hull could rot (if I understand your boat's construction correctly). The bad news is, it's hard to replace or repair planks that are enclosed in fibreglass. The good news is, the fibreglass is usually strong enough (in tension) to hold all the wooden parts together, while the remaining wooden structure within is strong enough (in compression) to hold the boat's shape. If you remove large areas of the fibreglass to replace planks, you would lose much of it's tensile strength holding the boat together.

The two best ways to stop rot's progress are with dry fresh air in the bilges or large doses of salt in the bilge water. This won't repair existing damage, but should stop it from continuing. To strengthen rotted wood timbers in place, you can use a thin epoxy injected and soaked into the rotted areas of the wood, such as "Git Rot," which will restore some of the material strength of the wood.

I have fibreglassed and "git-rot"-ed another older boat of mine (pre-H-28), but other than observing that she has held up under moderate usage, I have no way of knowing how much of her original strength was recovered by those methods.

Good luck,
Theo

=========== H28s in the Pacific North West, Cabin heaters ============
Subj: Modified H28
Date: 11/2/2005 8:28:47 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: txbikers_at_ntin.net (The Brocketts)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

I recently found what was described on yachtworld as a 1960 35 ft modified H28 for $13,000 US. The H28 is in the right area in that we are planning on spending our summers in the PNW. Are the other H 28's listed on your site still active and/or do you know of any others for sale? One more issue, is it feasible to rig this boat with some type of heater?

Thanks,
David Brockett
Muenster, Tx

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi David,

The only way to tell if a For sale listing here is to try to contact the person, since people rarely update me when the boat sells, goes off the market, or the seller changes his address. I have just deleted some of the older listings.

Yes, it should be fesible to rig a cabin heater in an H-28 cabin, if the heater is small enough, and if you research, understand, and follow all the applicable safety rules. I'm no expert and can give no advice here, so you should consult professional or published experts for details. I'm sorry to sound so ominous and cautious, but the stakes are high enough to make a little research very much worthwhile. This is not the place for amateurs to learn by trial and error.

Two important parts of the installation that I have heard about are exhausting the fumes if it's a combustion heater, and protecting the cabin interior from the heater. People have died from improper exhausts or insufficient ventilation. There is little warning since the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning are so unremarkable, such as headache and drowsiness. Moreover, unlike smoke, carbon monoxide is odorless and colorless, so if you stove is burning efficiently, there would be little indication of carbon monoxide accumulation in the cabin. In other cases, cabin interiors have caught fire next to stoves due to insufficient heat shielding near the stove.

Regards,
Theo

=================== H28 Spars and Bronze Fittings ====================
Subj: H28 Spars and Bronze Fittings
Date: 11/26/2005 12:15:50 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: redwitch1_at_earthlink.net (Jay Greer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hello Theo,

As you know, we are building new spars for our H28 "Bright Star" this winter. The new shop is nearly completed and a new spar bench is being built as I write this. In addition to boat building and spar making, we are a full service boat shop, capable of making all bronze tangs and hardware needed for the H28 or any of L.Francis Herreshoff's other designs. We also make the Tobin Bronze and Lignum Vitae mast head flag staffs, exactly as designed by LFH.

Halcyon Days,
Jay Greer
Common Sense Boat & Tool Co. Inc,
P. O. Box 698 Port Townsend WA 98368
(360) 385.6514

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi Jay,

This is really great! There is quite a need for these since they are hard to come by, and it's particularly hard to get fittings to a certain specification. Take a look at the notes below and on the for sale page from Lyle Kuhnert, John Dumke, and Allan Easton, who may be in the market for spars or bronze hardware.

Best of Luck,
Theo

======================= Update on H-28 Nebula ========================
[See Walt's note below from last January - he was going to remove the Atomic Four, replace frames and floor timbers and Sail this summer without the engine.]
Subj: H-28 Nebula
Date: 8/31/2005 6:55:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: lincolnmaritime_at_sbcglobal.net (lincolnmaritime)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hello Theo

I have attached a picture of Nebula. The trim is much better without the engine, but I have yet to sail her. We have the fall classic boat regattas coming up--Morgan Point and Race Rock--so I will have her ready by then. The frame and floor timber replacement took longer than I anticipated.

Best regards,
Walt Lincoln
14 Holmes St., Mystic, CT 06355
860-536-6920

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------

Hi Walt,

She sure looks nice! Let me know how she does in the Fall regattas.

Good luck!
Theo

=================== Hello from an H-28 in the 70's ===================
Subj: H-28's
Date: 8/21/2005 9:06:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: krsmit_at_att.net (Ken Smith)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Guys, Had my H-28 back in the 70's. Sold them and owned them. They were from Hong Kong and were beautiful. Teak decks and the works.

Good Sailing, Ken Smith in Newport Beach, Calif.

====================== Looking for a 1946 H-28 =======================
Subj: Is it possible
Date: 8/1/2005 10:27:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: tamerymc_at_cowelco.com (Tamery J McCrabb)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

to find a H-28 still in use that my grandfather and his associates built around 1946?

Check it out: http://www.cowelco.com/about.htm

Tamery J. McCrabb
Cowelco Steel Contractors
Purchasing Dept.
(562) 432-5766 x323
Fax (562) 491-1041
tamerymc_at_cowelco.com
http://www.cowelco.com/

===================== H-28 Mast Fittings Needed ======================
Subj: H 28 Mast fittings
Date: 7/22/2005 1:55:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: Lyle.Kuhnert_at_gov.bc.ca (Kuhnert, Lyle CAWS:EX)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hello

Wondering whether you could post Items Wanted on your message board. Urgently Needed: Mast hardware for new wood mast I'm constructing. Need spreader fittings, jumper fittings, masthead fittings and tangs. Willing to pay top dollar.

Lyle Kuhnert
3621 Elliston Avenue
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
(250) 386-7718
Thanks

============= Does anyone know anything about LFH Rozinante IOLANTHE? ==============
Subj: H-28 Info
Date: 7/14/2005 5:31:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: lbgraphics_at_pocketmail.com
To: THAschman_at_aol.com (THAschman_at_aol.com)

I have just aquired a Herreshoff 28. Actualy it is a design number 98, light displacement Canoe Yawl. I have copies of some of the plans that came with the boat. But I am curious this boat. Rumor has it that this boat was in the San Francisco Master Mariners Race some years ago. The title says she was built in 1968 and her name is IOLANTHE. If you have any info regarding this vessel or the design N0 98, I would certainly appreciate it.

She's in bad shape appearence wise. But still sound and I want to bring her back.

Attached are a couple photos.

Len Barton
San Francisco

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------

Hi Len,

Actually, this looks like the famous and popular Rozinante design by L. Francis Herreshoff. It's a perfect contrast to H-28. They both have nearly the same length, sail area and draft, but Rozinznte is 2/3 the beam, 2/3 the displacement, and has 51% of her displacement in ballast instead of 31%! Rozinante must really fly in light and moderate airs, whereas H-28 is much beefier in a blow and has much more room below. She is in the same book as H-28, Sensible Cruising Designs by L. Francis Herreshoff, in the following chapter, in fact.

Some Rozinante links:
Story: Restoring a 1970 Rozinante
Cheoy Lee also built Rozinantes
Pictures of another Rozinante
http://www.rozinante.org/ (payment required to enter site)
Norweigian Antartic exploration (Not an LFH Rozinante, but interesting)

Regards,
Theo

===================== More Info on Masts needed ======================
Subj: Masts
Date: 9/1/2005 11:08:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: johndumke_at_earthlink.net (John Dumke)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Theo,

I'm inquiring about mast replacement for a 1951 H-28. Can you help me with some ideas? I saw on your site that you reccomend Cooper or Pidgeon - how can I contact them? As well, last year Lisa Orban was selling her masts - are you still in contact with her. I tried her e-mail and came up empty handed. Any and all direction will be greatly appreciated.

New H-28 owner, Westport, Ct.

Best regards,
John Dumke

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------

Hi John,

Congratulations on your new H-28! I don't know where to find Pidgeon, they made masts decades ago and may be out of business. Cooper was based in Vermont or New Hampshire, but they have changed their number or moved since they made Lark's mainmast in 1991. I was unable to find them in an internet search.

However, I can recommend our boat builder George W. Zachorne in Wickford R.I. He has done all of Lark's maintenance and repairs, and builds boats and spars. You can reach him at 401-294-4472. His e-mail is GWZachorneJr_at_aol.com, but you're much more likely to reach him by telephone.

Other possibilities:

Other sparmakers I have seen advertising:
Elk Spars - hollow or solid wooden masts and spars. Bar Harbor, Maine, 207-288-9045
Classic Yacht Services - hollow or solid wooden masts and spars. Vancouver, Canada, 250-743-3837 www.classicyachtservices.com.

There also are many local traditional wooden boat builders in New England, such as:
Gannon & Benjamin in Martha's Vineyard, Mass.,
Brooklin Boat yard in Maine, and
Ralph Stanley in Maine.

www.woodenboatshop.com.au makes spars, but they're in Australia and shipping long packages is expensive.

Books on how to build boats, including some mast-making information:
Boatbuilding Manual by Robert M. Steward
Boatbuilding by Howard I. Chapelle
Skene's Elements of Yacht Design by Francis S. Kinney

And a forum that came up in a search:
http://boatforumz.com/Spruce-spars-source-tpc4963.html

Good luck!
Theo

=========== H-28 Chapter starting in the Pacific Northwest ===========
Subj: H28 Northwest
Date: 9/22/2005 10:50:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: Walle206
To: THAschman

I am interested in starting a H28 and/or Herreshoff Club NW (Seattel & Vancouver,BC area), so rather sart from the begining can you please advise as to what service or software you are using?

Walle Ralkowski
walle206_at_aol.com

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi Walle,

I just use regular HTML files without any active code like Java scripts. I originally composed them using Netscape Composer, since then I just edit them in a text editor because I'm familiar with the HTML codes. Either way works OK.

To post the completed pages on the website host service I use, I use an FTP tool called FTP Voyager, which can copy your files up to the website and copy what's there back down to your PC. Any FTP software package should be able to do the same. The other thing you'll need, of course, is a website to put the pages on, which you can rent from any good web hosting service.

Both of these tools can be purchased on the internet. Good luck, and let me know when you get something posted. I'd like to see it, and I'll put a link to it on my sebsite.

Regards,
Theo

======================= New Wooden Boat Site ========================
Subj: New Wooden Boat Site
Date: 8/5/2005 12:48:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: redwitch1_at_earthlink.net (Jay Greer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Theo,

As you know, I am an avid fan of L.Francis Herreshoff Designs and the enthusiastic owner of the H28 "Bright Star". I just wanted to mention that I have started a new group on Yahoo that deals with wooden boats of all designs as well as the building and maintenance of classic water craft. The site can be found at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/commonsenseboats/?yguid=9916088

Fair Winds,
Jay Greer

====================== Advice on Tuning the Rig ======================
Subj: Hereshoff 28 "Menehune"
Date: 5/10/2004 8:50:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: c_erickson_at_mindspring.com (Chris Erickson)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Theo,

It looks like I am about to become the proud owner of a Herreshoff 28. Menehune was built in 1962 by far east Yachts. The hull, cabin, interior are all in very good condition. The port side deck (plywood with fiber glass covering) and the aft decking (same construction) have suffered from some delamination. I have a good ship wright who will do the work to repair of replace this decking. My first question is: Do you know of others who have had this problem repaired that I might contact for advice?

Second, The standing rigging is all in good condition, but I am wondering if you could point me to someone or a source for tuning guidelines? The port and starboard shrouds seem loose to me. Also the spreader on the main is swept back slightly so that the main shroud going to the top of the mast is not aligned vertically with the mast. Do you know if this is proper for this rig?

Thanks
Chris

Chris Erickson
EA Partners
(408) 921-8834 (Mobile)
(650) 347-2085 (Office)

-------------------------- Reply ------------------------------
Hi Chris,

See the letter and answer below for advice on repairing and relaying decks.

Here are some standing rigging tuing guidelines. The stays and shrouds should be tight enough so that the mast doesn't move around. Movement of the masts while the boat rolls and pitches adds shock loads to the rig, which is bad. On the other hand, they stays and shrouds not be too tight, since they simply add more wringing stress to the hull, without making the masts any more secure. My rule of thumb on Lark is to keep them tight enough so they don't move, wobble or flop around when I shake them, but not tight enough for them to play a note when plucked.

It's normal for the spreaders to be swept back, provided that they are hinged and can swing forward and back. If they can swing, then when the shrouds are tightened they will move to to optimal position, with the shroud following the shortest and straightest path from the rail to the masthead. In this position, the mast and the two sections of the upper shroud will all lie in the same plane. You should be able to stand beside the boat at some point and see both parts of the upper shroud appearing exactly in line with the mast. This point doesn't necessarily have to be exactly abeam, but it will be in a line leading from the mast at the deck through the turnbuckles.

But if the spreader is fixed in a position other than that, then the shroud won't line in a flat plane with the mast, as you described. When the shroud is under load, there will be a force trying to wrench the spreader into the right position. But the angle of this force will be so small that it probably won't break the spreader-mast joint, as long as the spreader is not more than 10-15 degrees out of position and the mast-spreader joint is strong. Otherwise you would want to modify the spreader attachment to line up in the plane of the shroud or to swing freely near that alignment.

Best of luck with Menehune,
Theo

======================= Advice on Deck Repair ========================
Subj: decks
Date: 4/4/2004 9:45:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: NAVIGATOR365
To: THAschman

Hi my name is Gary and I just bought an H-28 (LA PAZ) built in Japan in 1958. The hull is teak on teak and she is ketch rigged. The boat is sound but the decks' caulking has dried out and there are several places where the deck strips are lifting off of the plywood underneath. A friend of mine said we'll just rip it all off and put plywood, but the idea of this makes me shudder. what are your views on this, would the resale value be compromised enough to warrant reinstalling a teak deck?

I am sailing the boat from Florida to Connecticut in the beginning of may if all goes well. is there a yard up north here that could do this job and who would you recommend.

Thank you for your time;
GOOD SAILING
Gary

-------------------------- Reply ------------------------------

Hi Gary,

I believe the resale value might be compromised, since teak Decks are attractive and popular. However, they do have a problem after a few decades. They are usually built with a plywood subdeck and teak strips laid on top. If the caulking, glue, or sealant in the teak strips fails, then fresh water gets between the decks and stays there, rotting the subdeck and causing leaks.

Relaying the teak strips or laying new ones shouldn't be a problem. You can screw them down on a layer of caulk, bedding compound, or adhesive, or lay them down in adhesive. For adhesive you can use expoxy, 3M 5200, or 3M 4200. The seams are usually payed with a black Thoikol seam compound, which gives the deck its characteristic look. One advice about 5200, though: once it's there it Never Comes Off. It's too rubbery to sand off, but you can make some progress with a heat gun and a knife. Another skipper at my club is performing this work himself on his Bermuda 30 (an H-28 variety).

All wood decks, including plywood decks, need a covering to withstand the daily cycle of sunlight and dew. Wood can't take the daily shrinking and swelling and stay watertight. That's why sailing ships washed the deck daily, it was to keep the moisture content more constant, and the deck thereby more watertight. That's also why the H-28's with teak planked decks usually have a plywood subdeck.

Hulls have it easier, they're immersed in water, giving them a constant humidity, and salt water is a rot preventative. Even the part of the hull above the waterline doesn't get as much heating from the sun because it isn't horizontal, and so doesn't get the full force of the sun when it's overhead, and at its strongest.

A Plain Plywood deck can be covered with Dynel fibreglass cloth and Expoxy resin, or canvas. The canvas method was the standard method before fibreglass. It also is a watertight layer which can stand the daily heat cycle better than wood. Lark has canvas over plywood deck, and canvas over pine planks (original design) on the cabin top. The canvas is laid over linsed-oil-based bedding compound, and painted. The paint is the waterproofing, the canvas doesn't swell and shrink, and the wood is safe underneath and provides the structure. It is more susceptible to injury and harder to repair than Dynel and Epoxy.

For work on teak decks, we recommend our boatbuilder, George W. Zachorne & Sons. He and his sons maintain and repair Lark and have a vast knowledge and experience with restoring and maintaining classic boats, especially Herreshoffs. He can be reached at 401-294-4472 or GWZachorneJr_at_aol.com.

Good Luck with the Deck. If you take before and after photos, we can post them here.

Sincerely, Theo

=================== Is There a Sloop Rig for H-28? ===================
Subj: H-28 sloop rig
Date: 3/27/2004 10:50:13 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: baycruiser54_at_hotmail.com (steve schaffer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Theo:

Is there a LFH-designed sloop rig addition to the H-28 plans? I had heard that he drew one up sometime later. If there is, does it come with the plans, as far as you know?

Thanks,
Steve Schaffer

-------------------------- Reply ------------------------------
Hi, Steve

There is a sloop rig, designed by L.F.Herreshoff a few years after he designed H-28. The mast is a few feet further aft and passes through the coachroof. It is a fractional headsail rig, and resembles the mainmast part of the ketch rig, enlarged to equal the ketch's sail area. There are images on the rigs page on this website.

These might be now in be available along with the original H-28 plans. Try contacting the sources for those listed on the plans page of this website. You should be able to take the original H-28 plans and the sloop sail plan to a sparmaker, rigger, and sailmaker and have the necessary dimensions and details worked out. They should also be able to do the same by taking the mainsail and jib part of the origianl sailplan and expanding it to H-28's full sail area.

There is also a 28-foot sloop design, "Solitaire," designed in 1940, whose hull is almost identical to H-28, designed in 1942. The hull is about a foot deeper and correspondingly heavier. The sail area is equal to H-28's when using the masthead jib. This sailplan could be used for an H-28 sloop rig in conditions where the masthead jib can be carried in the ketch rig. You would want to reef the main in conditions suitable for the H-28 standard rig. In Lark, we can carry the masthead jib in up to about 12 knots of breeze, and the standard rig (fractional jib or forestays'l) in up to about 22 knots.

Sincerely,
Theo

=========== Does any one know about a Herreshoff-Mistral? ============
Subj: herreshoff builder
Date: 6/4/2004 3:33:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: paulthornton_at_mindspring.com
Reply-to: paulthornton_at_mindspring.com
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi,

I came upon your website while researching a boat I'm thinking of buying. I'm just trying to get a little history on the boat performance, construction quality, any problems, etc. It's a 75' Herreshoff-Mistral (Ketch) built in 1983. I've found plenty of info on the Herreshoff family of builders, and they're solid. But this seems to be some kind of hybrid as it is listed HERRESHOFF-MISTRAL. All the sites I've been able to find so far on Mistral are for small boats like Sunfish and sailboards. Any ideas? It's early. I haven't met with the owner yet and seen what he may have in the way of info. Thank you.

Paul

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi Paul,

Perhaps it is a modification of one of LFH's designs. In his book, Sensible Cruising Designs (see the Books page), there is a 64-foot schooner called Mistral designed in 1937, which is 77 feet long if you include her bowsprit. There is also a 72-foot ketch called Ticonderoga (82 ft with bowsprit), designed in 1935.

Regards,
Theo

===================== Is Varuna still for sale? ======================
Subj: H28 for sale???
Date: 3/30/2005 5:37:08 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: mwinkelman_at_pjar.com (Mark Winkelman)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Theo,

I happened upon your website and loved it. I am beginning a search for a classic (wood) sail boat suitable for day sails and the occasional overnight in the Hudson and Long Island Sound waterways. The H28 seems perfect. Is Varuna still available?

Mark Winkelman

====================== How Do I Contact Varuna? ======================
Subj: h28 for sale
Date: 3/21/2005 9:35:42 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: SaraBaraWink
To: THAschman
CC: mwinkelman_at_pjar.com

Web master,

I tried to contact Ken Wagner to inquire about the boat he is trying to sell.However, I was not able to send him an email...something about too many characters in the email address. MIght you know if the boat is still available? and then how I might be able to contact him.

Thanks for your help
Mark
Ps: Please respond to the CC address above mwinkelman_at_pjar.com
thanks again

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Subj: Re: h28 for sale
Date: 3/22/2005 7:25:49 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: THAschman
To: SaraBaraWink

Hi Mark,

Did you use the address from the website, "ken_at_kenwagneryachts.com (Ken Wagner)"? If so, try editing it to "ken_at_kenwagneryachts.com (Ken Wagner)". I change the "@" to "_at_" in everyone's email address to prevent spammers from harvesting email addresses.

Thanks,
Theo

====================== Progress on "Bright Star" ======================

================== and comments on moving trim ballast =================
Subj: Progress on "Bright Star" and comments on moving trim ballast
Date: 2/20/2005 9:39:28 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: redwitch1_at_earthlink.net (Jay Greer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Gang,

We are making real progress with the restoration of "Bright Star"! Our son Jaime has now stripped all bright work, applied our "witches brew" of aniline dye stain and ten coats of Z-Spar Flag Ship Varnish. The water ways have been stripped and painted and new canvas has been applied to the coach roof. New drip rails are being made as of this posting. The Starboard after end of the deck house has been rebuilt in varnished raised panel African Mahogany and is indiscernible from the existing port side. The new fuel tank has been built and installed and, for Christmas, we treated our sweet heart with a new set of bronze Herreshoff sheeting blocks for main and mizzen complimented by three strand white spun Dacron sheets. Next will come the spring haul out and bottom job. Topsides done in LP will be good for another season. But the transom will be stripped and the name, "Jin Lung" which was given by a former owner will be removed and her original name "Bright Star" will again grace her transom in knurled Roman gold leaf letters.

Still to come is a complete new set of spars plus a set of running backstays. I do feel that the backstays will assist in keeping the mast in better column and removing sag from the jib stay when working to weather. The original mast was broken while using a masthead genoa prior to our purchase of the boat.

A comment on shifting trim ballast. An easy method is to use small bags filled with lead shot. This has worked well for us with other boats we have owned. The bags are relatively easy to shift and can compensate for the weight of crew that does not show up on race day.

Fair Winds,
Jay, Anne and Jaime Greer

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------

Hi there Bright Stars,

I posted your latest letter. It is great to hear the latest news. I really like the spun Dacron three-strand, It makes everything look so beautiful. I was also very interested to hear that the mast webt by the board while carrying a masthead jib. We race in that configuration, but I was quite nervous about it since my headstay (the one to the masthead) was quite small (3/16", I think) and disconnecting the forestay (the lower one, which carries the forestaysail) left the mast with but only that one stay forward. So a few years ago I replaced the headstay with a much heavier one (5/16", I think) and have felt safer. I also concur on the usefulness of the running backstays. With the masthead jib the headstay and twin backstays support each other. But when using the forestaysail, the halyard tension and wind pressure on the sail bend the upper midsection of the mast forward, resulting in a sagging forestaysail luff and less weatherly performance. I have debated using jumper stays or running backstays. L.F. Herreshoff once designed running backstays for H-28 at the request of an owner. They fastened at the hounds (where the forestay attaches) and ran to the rail aft so that they were parallel to the backstays.

If you have any more details about the loss of the mast, please tell us about them. I'm sure that many skippers in addition to myself would be quite interested learning about so they can avoid the same fate.

Regards,
Theo

================== Hello from the Pacific Northwest ===================
========== How do I find the Hull Number on a Far East 29? ===========
Subj: Far East 29
Date: 1/11/2005 10:24:36 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: schifsky_at_rockisland.com (Mike Schifsky)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Greetings,
I just found this site.

I have had a Far East 29 (Raven) for the past 2 years. She was neglected but not derelict. I've enjoyed working on and sailing her here in the San Juan Islands, Washington State, and in BC.

Last winter I removed the worn out Volvo MD11, and replaced with a Yanmar 3GM30F that I rebuilt. Tight squeeze, but it fit. Great engine. In the archives I noticed a posting from TerryWatness in Olympia, Wa. Raven also lived in Olympia awhile ago, and I wonder if Terry knows the boat.

Also, where do you find the hull # on the Far East 29?

Regards, Mike Schifsky

=================== Racing H-28 Beats Larger Boats ===================
=========== Question on Ballast Placement for Racing Trim ============
Subj: Helena
Date: 1/3/2005 7:00:53 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: curtismtij_at_msn.com (martha curtis)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Great job with the website. Thought it would be interesting for others to know how well a cedar on oak 1949 H-28 built in Bridgeport, CT at Joel Johnson's Yard still sails. She has a bowsprit, and aluminum masts with full masthead rig. All sails are new and max cut to PHRF rating, 155% jib.

This fall, Sept 18 2004, Helena sailed in a classic boat regatta (pre-1970 hulls) and handily won. With four 190+ lb guys on the rail and helmsman (me) on the hi side, #2 non-overlapping jib, reef in main, blowing 25-30 knots she was driving to weather at avg 6 knots. We beat a '69 Rhodes 41 boat for boat. All other boats were fiberglass. On the second downwind leg we hoisted the mizzen staysail, mizzen, and unreefed the main which produced almost steady speeds of 8.25 to 8.5 knots.

While she still takes on a little water, the old girl held up extremely well. New floor timbers, 90% new fastenings, new thru keel bolts, hanger bolts, maststep, and four oversize frames of five layers of laminated white oak on each side of the maststep have obviously helped her to be able to withstand this type of racing stress.

Helena won this race before in very light wind conditions with big spinakker and mizzen staysail, excellent tactics, and luck - beat a Concordia 39' boat for boat. H-28's are extremely fast off the wind and will handily save their time against much larger, faster, modern yachts. Just hope you don't have a long beat in a moderate/dying breeze against the current; you must have a good supply of cold beer.

If anyone has any go fast tips or ever added ballast to the forward part of the keel to correct trim please let me know.

Fair Winds, Tim Curtis

----------------------------- Reply -----------------------------
Hi Tim,

I had the same problem with trim in Lark. She was a little heavy by the stern, which I felt was slower, plus the cockpit would not drain properly. At that time she had an Atomic Four engine and 20 gal gas tank under the coickpit. I moved all her ground tackle (Anchors and rode) out of the cockpit lockers and into the fo'c'sle, and she already has 250 lbs of loose ballast forward of the mast.

This corrected her trim, but at the cost of having a lot of weight in her ends. This is very slow, as it causes a vessel to pitch more heavily in waves, and to keep pitching a few times after a large wave passes. This pitching would slow her almost to a stop, as it made three or four large bow waves leaving the area with her former kinetic energy! In light air it was deadly, because it takes her so long to reacquire her speed. (H-28's original rig is very undercanvassed for winds under ten knots. Your bowsprit and masthead rig are the perfect answer for that.)

We had read about a boat with a similar problem, who gained a significant improvement by moving her windlass and chain amidships. We tried a similar solution by installing a new lightweight one-cylinder diesel engine and 14-gal diesel tank, saving 190 lbs of engine and 22 lbs of fuel, and moving them forward toward the center of gravity by about a foot. Her sailing qualities in waves have improved, but I haven't been able to quantify how much yet.

Given the problem with pitching, H-28 may be faster with the weight amidships, even if it makes her stern-heavy. You can experiment to find out by stowing a large amount of heavy gear way forward during a race or while sailing alongside another boat for a while as a trial horse, then moving all that heavy gear aft to the middle of the cabin, and seeing whether her performance improves.

Regards,
Theo

--------------------------- Another Reply ----------------------------
Hi Tim,
Subj: To Tim Curtis on Ballast for Trim
Date: 2/22/2005 7:45:06 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: redwitch1_at_earthlink.net (Jay Greer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Tim,

We have found that shot bags make the best form of trim ballast. Easy to move and will not scar the boat.

Jay Greer/"Bright Star"

=================== How do I build a Mizzen Mast? ====================
Subj: without mast Date: 11/25/2004 10:49:31 AM Eastern Standard Time From: haisameffe_at_yahoo.it (haissam fra) To: THAschman_at_aol.com Hi, I' m a Italian owner of a H-28 built in California in 1961, that has not the back small mast, I' d like to rebuild one but I don' t know the original project, the size, the kind of wood, the boom etc. Please help me to find this informations. I will build it in Turkie. Sincerly Francesco

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi Francesco,

Generally, spars should be built out of sitka spruce or douglas fir. Instructions on building masts can be gotten from any good boatbuilding book such as "Boatbuilding" by Robert Steward of "Boatbuilding" by Howard I. Chapelle.

The exact specifications and measurements of the mizzen mast are in L.F. Herreshoff's H-28 Plans, currently owned by the Mystic Seaport Museum in Connecticut, USA, who should be willing to sell you a copy. Contact them at Mystic Seaport Ships Plans or Mystic Seaport. When I bought my copy from Muriel Vaughan, the whole set cost about $450. More details are on this site at http://www.edgewoodyc.org/h28/plans.htm

You can also find the plans (reduced in size, and without license to build) in L.F.Herreshoff's book, "Sensible Cruising Designs," which is well worth buying. You may find it available from International Marine Publishing Company, or Amazon.com. Also see Books by L. Francis Herreshoff 

Ciao,
Theo

===================== Sea Trials For Bright Star ======================
Subj: Sea Trials For Bright Star
Date: 11/15/2004 7:41:36 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: redwitch1_at_earthlink.net (Jay Greer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Gang,

Yesterday, 11/14/04 we took time off from our long restoration project on our origional/non modified H28 "BRIGHT STAR."

Here in Southern California we often get what are known as Santa Ana winds this time of year. The normal westerly sea breeze is replaced by hot, offshore desert winds that will last for the better part of a day but dying down near late after noon. It was blowing 25 to 30 knots and gusting up to 45 when we took off from the dock. With a single reef in the main, the 100% working jib and full mizzen, we blasted down Newport Harbor and out to sea for a great sail in the heaviest winds we have taken the boat out in to date.

Having sailed and skippered many Herreshoff boats over the years, including several modified versions of the H28, I can honestly say that it was really a pleasure to experience a boat that is built and rigged out the way the designer intended it to be.

We were able to clock the boat by Sat Nav and found that we were hitting between 7.5 and 8 knots on a close reach! All of that speed was disguised by the exquisite balance of the helm, coupled by dry decks and rails that never buried. As we scuttled by modern glass boats that were showing their ballest fins and spade rudders in knock downs, we enjoyed a bottle of fine wine accompanied by a loaf of French bread and some fruit and cheese.

All that with the helm balanced against the skippers knee!

We toasted our thanks to L. Francis Herreshoff for his genius in designing the H28.

Jay, Jaime and Anne Greer

========================= H-36 construction ==========================

*** Does anybody have any information about a Herreshoff 36 or Libra 111? ***

Subj: HERRESHOFF 36
Date: 7/15/2004 1:14:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: beng_at_mail2me.com.au (BEN MINORS)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Dear Webmaster

I am trying to get some in formation on the structure of my Herreshoff 36. In the early 1980s 4 H28 owners wanted a craft the same as the H28 but with a bit more room, they used the basic design but gave her more beam and length. I believe she was built by Seaglass Yachts in Whanganui in 1982. Her name was Libra 111.

I am hoping someone in the H28 association may remember something about her. She is a lovely boat but she has developed a leaking fuel tank which is under the galley floor and water tank, it appears to be between 2 bulkheads and all you can sea are the inlet & outlet fuel pipes. I am trying to find out if the fuel tank was built into the hull or not.

Also she has Tiller steering, does anyone know of a H36 that had wheel steering installed.

Any information would be appreciated.

THANKS.
Ben Minors

===================== H-12 1/2 sold via website ======================
Subj: Re: Fw: Forwarding question on Pequod
Date: 8/6/2004 10:30:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: tmstiles_at_mindspring.com (Ted Stiles)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Theo,

Yes, I'd be happy to send some pics. The only ones I have to date are those that show her on the trailer. I should have some shots of her under sail soon. We live on Westport Island (south of Wiscasset) and sail her on the Sheepscot river near the mouth. The wind is fairly consistent and there are many little islands to go poking about in.

Ted

----- Original Message -----
From: THAschman_at_aol.com
To: tmstiles_at_mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Forwarding question on Pequod

Hi Ted,

Thanks for the note. Though we're an H-28 website, we're interested in all Herreshoff designs. Would you be willing to send us a few pictures of Pequod to put on the website?

We really like Maine. My wife and I sailed Lark to Maine in 1993, and got as far as Swan's Island. Spent a nice time in Camden, and visited Lark's sailmaker there. Were do you sail Pequod?

Glad to hear you and Pequod are enjoying each other!

Theo Aschman

----- Original Message -----
Subj: Fw: Forwarding question on Pequod
Date: 8/5/2004 9:35:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: tmstiles_at_mindspring.com (Ted Stiles)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com
CC: tsphillips_at_rcn.com (Tina Phillips)

Theo,

Hi, yes I found the listing for Pequod on the H-28 site (I was searching with Google). And yes, we're having a wonderful time with her (had a great sail last evening).

Ted Stiles

============================ H-28 Plans ==============================
========================= First H-28 Built? ==========================
Subj: Plans for a H 28
Date: 8/19/2004 12:57:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: jjjffff_at_bigpond.com.au (Joe Finn)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

How does one get Plans for a Ketch rigged H28?

PS I also read somewhere a couple of years ago that the first H28 built was in Australia - in Melbourne at the end of WW2 - either just before the end or just after - I will try to find the article and send it on - it may take a while.

Joe Finn
Torrskog P/L
14 Inchcape Street
Fairfield QLD 4103
Australia
jjjffff_at_bigpond.com.au

----------------------------- Reply -----------------------------
Hi Joe,

After the passing of L. Francis Herreshoff, the plans passed to his friend, Muriel Vaughan. They were later given to Mystic Seaport Museum in Connecticut, USA. They used to be listed on their website's Ship's Plans pages. I believe they are still in the Seaport's possession, and they should be willing to sell you a copy. Contact them at Mystic Seaport Ships Plans or Mystic Seaport. When I bought my copy from Muriel Vaughan, the whole set cost about $450. More details are on this site at http://www.edgewoodyc.org/h28/plans.htm

Regards,
Theo

====================== H-28 Weight for a trailer =====================
Subj: H28 weight
Date: 8/11/2004 5:06:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: roballen_at_hypermax.net.au (roballen)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hello,

I have my fathers steel H28 (original design with ..headroom) and will be moving it. It has been gutted and ballast removed and am looking for a weight calculator / estimate for the getting of a crane. Can any one provide a rough estimate.

Regards
Robert Allen
Australia

------------------------------- Reply --------------------------------
Hi Robert,

The designed displacement of H-28 is 9017 lbs. Even loaded down she wouldn't be much more than 10,000 lbs. At her waterplane area, she submerges one inch for every 704 pounds of extra weight.

Steel, fibreglass, or even ferrocement hulls aren't any heavier or lighter if they have the same hull shape underwater and float to the same waterline. Because of the law of bouyancy, if an H-28 hull were heavier, it would float lower in the water, and if it were ligher, it would float higher. If a type of construction is heavier than the original material, then the designer must compensate either by saving a corresponding weight elsewhere in the boat, or by enlarging the hull's underwater shape and volume to provide enough extra bouyancy.

Even if your steel hull differs from the original plan, it probably isn't heavier than 17,000 pounds if it's less than 32 feet long.

Regards,
Theo

==============================================================

Re: H28 BRIGHT STAR
Date: 3/15/2004 1:08:17 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: redwitch1_at_earthlink.net (Jay Greer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com
CC: corkpuller_at_cox.net (Jaime Greer)

Dear Theo,

Thank you for your reply to my post. I fully understand the joys of dealing with new family as we are doing the same with our son and grand children. All I can say is, just keep smiling and working for the future!

Our H 28 "Bright Star" is a lovely example of L. Francis Herreschoff's Genius! Built in Barcelona Spain in 1960 of African Mahogany on Acacia frames with Spruce Spars and Teak Decks, she is an excellent example of the very highest level of her builders skills.

"Bright Star" has just been treated to a new set of sails made by Skip Elliott of Elliott Pattison Sails of Newport Beach CA. The performance improvement over the old suit is absolutely amazing! It being equine, to adding a quart of nitro methane to the fuel in your car. Skip once owned a modified H28 and so is very familiar with how to get the most out of the small, but adequate sail plan. My son Jaime is slaving tiresly at the thankless but rewarding job of stripping all of "Bright Stars" bright work down to bare wood and applying ten coats of best quality spar varnish after a special magic application of stain procedure known only to the old master finishers of early French Provincial Furniture.

As mentioned before in an earlier post, we are a two generation family of wooden boat builders. We intend to restore even Bright Star even closer to Mr. Herreshoff's original plans than she was originally built to. Scheduled this year are a new set of masts and spars, built exactly to the Herreshoff drawings with all of the bronze hardware made as it was intended to be made. We are a full service wooden boat facility that can handle all aspects of duplication of any bronze or wooden component of any past design.

As for the performance under power, her 11 Hp Universal Diesel is more than enough to power her easily driven hull. However, I feel that the current propeller is far to small to power the boat adequately in any condition requiring real drive in a head sea or against the wind. I plan to change to a feathering Max Prop sometime in the future which will reduce drag under sail but also give the most efficiency possible both in forward as well as reverse.

On an other note, my wife Anne and I have had the pleasure of being actively involved with the co-ordination of the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival over the past seven years and are contributors to special featured articles in Wooden Boat Magazine.

We once had the pleasure of spending several weeks in the Herreshoff Home as guests with of Herrreshoffs Secretary Muriel Vaughn prior to her passing. During that time, it seemed that Skipper has just stepped out for a cup of coffee while I had the run of the Herreshoff shop. I plan to publish a book of the extensive. photos I took during that time.

Best Wishes and regards, Jay, Anne and Jaime Greer/Common Sense Boat & Tool Co. Inc.

Also see photos of Bright Star on the Stories page

==============================================================
Subj: Herreshoff 12 1/2
Date: 3/1/2004 11:35:25 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: tsphillips_at_rcn.com (Tina Phillips)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hello...I live on Nantucket...my husband died 5 months ago and we have a beautifully restored 1927 H class...PEQUOD...i need to sell. Do you have any connections or other sites I can email for someone who may be interested in purchasing her for around $15,000, with trailer.

Thank you, Tina Phillips
tsphillips_at_rcn.com 508-257-6909 or 508-221-7931

==============================================================
Subj: Fairwind for sale
Date: 2/18/2004 9:38:26 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: terrykj_at_verizon.net (Terry Jones)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hello Theo,

We met a few years ago when I sailed Fairwind up the bay from Jamestown to see Lark. It was the eve of your halloween party at Edgewood Yacht Club.

I have subsequently moved to Jamestown and have made the decision to move on to another boat. We had an awsesome monthlong crusie to Penobscot Bay in Fairwind a few years back & the family is outgrowing her.

Fairwind is a Far East 29.
Well equipped and in 'good' condition, which means she sails every year, has a lot of projects done and gleaming, and a few in the offing.
She has 'still crisp' 2 yr old Banks Main and Mizzen, several old genoas, a working jib, storm jib, spinnaker and mizzen staysail.
Power is a reliable Faryman 11 hp single cylinder diesel w/ 3 blade prop (1/2 gal / hr @ 6 kt)
There are recently new cushions in the cabin, bunk boards to create a double sleeping area.
Head and holding tank w/ new stainless deck fittings
Lifelines with solid aluminum Matella stanchions
Instruments: Autohelm Wind, Depth, Speed; SimRAD tillerpilot; NMEA /Seatalk translator box; Garmin GPS w/ Mast Antenna
VHF, Redundant bilge pumps w/ counter, Stainless Steel water tank, Origo two burner stove, Stainless steel galley sink w/ Classic brass pump.
All fixed ports were replaced with opening bronze ports.
I'll try to get some pictures together soon.

Asking $19,500

Hope all is well,

Terry Jones
24 Washington Street
Jamestown, RI
(401) 423-9190
(617) 510-1444

-------------------------- Reply ---------------------------
Hi Terry,

Thanks for writing! It's a shame we didn't get our boats together again while you had her. We've had a hard time getting out with our young daughter, but we had our first overnight with her last summer. We also cruised for a month to Penobscot Bay in Maine eleven years ago. We'll put your ad on the website. Photos would be especially helpful.

Best of luck,
Theo

==============================================================
Subj: H-28
Date: 2/16/2004 8:44:03 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: bobhanzl_at_optonline.net (Bob Hanzl)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi , I have recently purchased an original H-28, built in 1964. I have been making improvements for about 3 years, and I was wondering if this association is still active. I noticed its been over a year since it was updated.... I am looking for info on a replacement engine.... I will be sailing out of West Islip L.I. on the Great South Bay... I can't wait for this winter to be over...

Bob Hanzl

-------------------------- Reply ---------------------------
Hi Bob,

Thanks for writing! Yes, we're active, and catching up on website updates and inquiries.

I've posted your letter on the website. Let me know if you prefer I take it down. Thanks.

Engines: H-28 doesn't need much power, and hasn't much space for an engine.

Space: L. Francis Herreshoff's original engine needed a raised box in the cockpit sole to accommodate it. Lark has a slightly raised cockpit sole and bridgedeck, and the engine's height fits neatly under the bridgedeck. Seems the room in there is very wide but quite low. The Standing Headroom H-28s such as the Bermuda 30 and the Far East 29 may have more room due the increased freeboard.

Power: Depending on your needs, 12 horsepower should be sufficient. Our boatbuilder's rule is "One horsepower per ton for motoring in a calm or docking, and 3 horsepower per ton for powering in heavy weather." H-28 designed displacement is 9,000 lbs., or about 4 long tons, which would require 4 horsepower for calms and 12 horsepower for heavy weather.

Many H-28s in the 1960s were fitted with an Atomic Four 30-hp 4 cylinder gas engine, since it was cheap, reliable and easily available. Lark had one for 37 years, and it was very faithful. We replaced it with a 9 horsepower diesel (1-cylinder Yanmar) and got slightly improved performance. Another H-28 in Rhode Island has an 11 horsepower Faryman Diesel.

Many people feel more comfortable with more power, such as 18, 25, or 30 hp, but I don't think you get twice as much speed or heavy weather performance with twice the power. In calm seas your speed is limited by hull speed. In heavy seas it is limited by the hull's pitching, and a lot of the extra power is spent throwing spray, making a large wake, and trying to launch the hull off the wave crests. With sufficient extra power in really bad conditions you might stress the hull or fatigue the crew and find yourself slowing down anyway.

Propeller: While thinking about engines, don't forget that the propeller is equally important to performance. Lark got better performance from her smaller engine because she switched from a 12 x 6 propeller to a 14 x 9 (Dia. x pitch, in inches). Those are both narrow 2-bladed props, with less drag for sailing, but transmit less power to the water than a large 3-bladed prop. The only way to get both properties is to get a folding or feathering prop. The best is Autoprop, but it's very expensive.

Propeller Location: The designer of H-28 led the propeller shaft out of the side of the hull next to the deadwood just before the rudder. Most people are unfamiliar with this seemingly off-balance arrangement, but LFH listed many good reasons in his books and it works very well on Lark. A propeller in an aperture in the deadwood loses some of its power to turbulence and blockage in that area, whereas the offset prop delivers its power in clear, flowing water. LFH says that this results in more power, more speed, and better fuel economy. Also, the propeller shaft going through the sternpost reduces the strength of the hull, or needs more complex reinforcement. The thrust is not as asymmetrical as you might think. Lark only needs 1-2 degrees of tiller to go straight, and actually turns tighter in the direction away from the prop, where the prop wash is on the outside of the turn, away from the rudder.

Good luck with the engine! and send photos if you like.

Thanks,
Theo

==============================================================
Subj: H-28 Nebula
Date: 1/27/2004 5:05:17 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: lincolnmaritime_at_sbcglobal.net (Walter Lincoln)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Nice website--the first I've seen it. I remember LARK when Sven owned her, and we had several nice times in the local regattas such as Race Rock and the Memorial Day race for the Museum of Yachting in Newport. I've owned NEBULA since 1981 and keep her in Mystic. She was built by Hodgdon Bros in 1947 and her original owner was Bruno Lauer-Leonardi, the editor of Rudder who published LFH's articles. She is hull #7 of the old H-28 Association and has the identical profile as the original design. I removed the Atomic Four, am replacing frames and floor timbers and expect to have her back in the water (sans engine) this summer.

Walt Lincoln
waltnebula_at_aol.com
Lincoln Maritime LLC
14 Holmes St., Mystic, CT 06355
860-536-6920

-------------------------- Reply ---------------------------
Hi Walt,

Thanks for writing! We haven't seen Sven since we bought Lark from him in 1991. He described some of his adventures in the Race Rock Regatta. He was such a gentleman! I understand he was also a very skilled racing sailor.

We also removed our Atomic Four engine, and replaced it with a much smaller engine in order to save weight. I would love to hear your thoughts on removing Nebula's engine, and how she performs with the engine out. Under sail, that is. Send photos if you like, and we'll post them.

We're two day's sail from Mystic, and perhaps we'll get a chance to see Nebula in person. Our club has an annual cruise to the Mystic area every other year.

Regards,
Theo

==============================================================
Subj: (no subject)
Date: 1/23/2004 5:28:16 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: Pennnnguin_at_aol.com
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hello My name is Ron Tyrrell and I have some items that I would like to find a home for. Back in 1975 I bought an unfinished H28 and after having it surveyed and trucked to my home in Gig Harbor Wash. we found a major flaw in the costruction of the hull and it would not have been cost effective to finish the boat. So thirty years have gone by and I have all of this new H28 rigging,blocks ,fasteners, and last but not least a brand new set of Shattuer sails still in the bags. There is main,mizzen,and jib,these sails were only recently taken from the bags to be measured and check for damage and there is none. I can provide pictures and measurements if needed and I would to find them a good home. I paid about three thousand for them in 1975 and have no idea what they are worth so I am open to offers. Shattuer still has a loft in Seattle although Franz died some years back but the sons are still in business.My adress is pennnnguin_at_aol.com or Ron Tyrrell 1184 N.E. Sunrise Lane Hillsboro Or 97124. My phone number is 503 681 0319
Thank You Ron

-------------------------- Reply ---------------------------
Hi Ron,

Thanks for writing. I've placed your letter in the For-Sale page. Please note that many different boatyards built H-28s, many slightly different, especially the rig. For this reason, measurements of your sails would probably be necessary before someone would purchase them. It's easy enough to make small changes in either spars or sails to accomodate each other, providing you're aware of the need before you start.

I would like more information on the assortment of hardware, particularly one or more photos of the items. I might be interested in a few items, too, and there might be someone who is building or outfitting an H-28 who might be interested in buying the whole lot.

Thanks,
Theo

==============================================================
Subj: H 28 SALGARI
Date: 1/14/2004 6:34:18 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: torrensbora_at_mail.pf (Dominic TORRENS)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi,
My name is TORRENS Dominic. I am living in Bora Bora Island - French Polynesia.
One of my friend had for few month ago a H28 builded in 1961a Antofogasta in Chile. The first boat's name was "SALGARI" .
My friend want to rebuild the boat .

May be you have some information on this boat ?
Many thanks

dominic
torrensbora_at_mail.pf ---

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com/).
Version: 6.0.559 / Virus Database: 351 - Release Date: 07/01/2004

-------------------------- Reply ---------------------------
Hello Dominic,
Thanks for writing! I looked through my records and found no mention of "Salgari."
Has anyone else out there heard of her, or have any information?

Regards,
Theo

==============================================================
Subj: Introducing myself into the H-28 Association
Date: 11/15/2003 11:27:39 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: lindy33_at_earthlink.net (Linda & Marc O'Riordan)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi everyone!!

My name is Marc O'Riordan and am the proud owner of an H-28 here on Long Island N.Y. I purchased the vessel several years ago from a fellow in Center Moriches, N.Y. Upon purchasing "FAYAWAY", I came to learn that a full page picture as well as an article about her appeared in "Wooden Boat" No.115, Nov/Dec, 1993, as well as some pictures of her in Chapman's 56th edition.

About four months of continual work during the winter of 2000 made her quite serviceable and for that matter quite a "looker" here on the north shore of Long Island. Lynn and I did quite a bit of sailing on her, she handled like a dream and we received compliments everywhere we tied up.

I longed for her to have that "New England" appearance, so in 2001-2002 I decided to strip her of her original "Herreshoff Yacht" look and go green hull with red bottom and and "Ecru" deck, courtesy of Kirby Paints, New Bedford, MA. She looked just like "Lark" on the homepage. She beckoned compliments, photographs and head-turning everywhere we went. Unfortunatly, it was a bad year for her, however. For as well as drawing looks and compliments from us Homo sapiens, she also drew lots of attention on the mooring from commorants and seagulls who defiled her. In addition, her rudder broke, and while in the process of replacing same, stupid here, (Marc O'), never went out to recharge the batteries which supplied the bilge pumps. Hence she sunk during a storm, but was raised within four days, with tears in my eyes and a sharp pounding in my chest.

She laid in dead storage for almost two years, but was brought home to my house just recently. My first task was to get the masts, which were beginning to separate, back into proper form which was done. The vessel is now fully covered and protected from the weather. She needs 4 -5 hull planks relpaced, otherwise, all is well with the hull. All frames and timbers are sound. I plan to replace the deck and coachroof in clear cedar, varnished and non-skidded. Go back to "Herreshoff Yacht White" with green bottom and make some changes within the interior so as to reflect L. Francis Herreshoff's original plans (including the cedar bucket).

As time goes by, I keep you up-dated as to the progress of the project.

By the way, I've decided to change the name from "FAYAWAY" to "ALBATROSS" in memory of Capt. Christopher Sheldon and those who perished on "ALBATROSS" in 1961 as depicted in the film "White Squall".

Later
Marc O'Riordan

-------------------------- Reply ---------------------------
Hi Marc,

Thanks for writing! I remember reading that article about Fayaway, and friends of ours were considering buying her at one time. I hope her work goes well. Please do keep us updated, and include photos if you can!

A few words about decks:

If you haven't built decks before, it would be a good idea to obtain advice from someone who has, since they have a few tricky characteristics. Because decks are heated each day and dewed eac night, they work and leak a lot if they aren't built to accommodate this movement.

Laid (planked) decks on sailing ships were hosed each day in order to keep them from drying out, opening their seams, and (paradoxically) leaking. Also, they were caulked with pitch instead of oakum, because it is more flexible.

Planked or plywood decks on small boats or yachts which wouldn't be hosed every day were covered with light canvas laid in linseed-oil-based bedding compound, and then painted. This kept the dew out of the wood of the deck better than coats of paint and varnish, and which reduced their shrinking and swelling. The modern version of this method is Dynel fibreglass cloth laid in epoxy resin.

Painted or varnished wood decks are not as likely to be as watertight or long-lasting as those with the cloth covering or daily hosing.

A third method, common in the 60's to the 80's, is to have a laid deck laid over a plywood base deck. This looked very traditional and salty, and the plywood kept the deck planking from movement and kept any leakage from getting into the cabin. Until it got old, that is. Then all that fresh rainwater reaching the plywood would rot it, requiring a very expensive entire deck replacement.

I've posted your letter on the website. Let me know if you prefer I take it down. Thanks.

Good luck with Fayaway / Albatross! and send photos if you like.

Thanks,
Theo

==============================================================
Subj: Our New H28
Date: 8/15/2003 12:25:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: redwitch1_at_earthlink.net (Jay Greer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hello All,

We are happy to announce the purchase and stewardship of "Bright Star", H 28 #131 built !960 in Barcelona Spain 1960 to the original plans by L. Francis Herreshoff. More on this later. We are going below for a glass of bubbly!

Cheers,
Anne, Jay, Minnie and Jaime Greer, not to mention the dog, Peaches.

-----------------------------------------------------
Subj: New H28 in our family
Date: 8/16/2003 8:58:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: redwitch1_at_earthlink.net (Jay Greer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com
File:KICX0128.JPG (141680 bytes) DL Time (50666 bps): < 1 minute
15 August 2003

Hi All,

We have just purchased BRIGHT STAR, H28 #131 built 1960 by the Astilleros Yard in Barcelona Spain. The hull is African Mahogany on Acacia Frames with teak decks. Power 2cyl. Universal diesel. The boat is unmodified, as close to L.Francis Herreshoffs plans as any I have seen and of course sails beautifully!

We will be building new spars for her as former owners have made changes that aesthetically are not all that wonderful. It will be a nice winter project to make up a spliced rigging gang also.

We sailed our new old boat home from Long Beach California to Newport Beach CA, a distance of 20 nautical miles in just three hours!

Cheers,
Jay, Anne and Jaime Greer

----------------------------------------------------- Subj: Bright Star
Date: 8/21/2003 12:02:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: redwitch1_at_earthlink.net (Jay Greer)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com
File:KICX0128.JPG (141680 bytes) DL Time (50666 bps): < 1 minute

Hello,
We are a family of wooden boat builders and will maintain an restore "BRIGHT STAR" to the best of Bristol Condition.
Best Wishes,
Jay, Anne and Jaime Greer

-------------------------- Reply ---------------------------
Dear Jay, Anne, and Jaime,

I am sorry this response to your letters is so late in coming. The website has not been updated in the last year because both my wife's and my job have been unusually demanding over the past two years, while we're also trying to raise a young family. Things are beginning to lighten up a bit, and we should be able to keep the site current and catch up on some of the letters sent in. I have posted your description and photo on the website. Thanks for your patience!

Thanks you for sending us news of "Bright Star" and her photo. She is lovely! I'm glad to hear she's in the hands of a family of wooden boat builders, who want to keep her in beautiful condition. Hope splicing the rigging gang goes well. Keep us informed, photos are especially welcome. I'm curious to see the modifications you will be doing to the rig.

The run from Long Beach to Newport Beach sounds like quite a speedy passage! How many horsepower is your 2 cyl Unversal diesel, and how is her performance, especially in heavy seas?

Regards,
Theo

==============================================================
Subj: Modified H-28 restoration
Date: 2/8/2003 12:56:37 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: TerryWatness
To: THAschman

I too am restoring a Far Eastern modified H-28. I'm up here in Olympia, Washington. I have hull #14. Carl Applebaum, here in town, has hull #78. I am about to start year seven of my rebuild. Should be putting the top of the cabin on here in a week or so. The only things left of the original boat are the ballast keel, 3/4 of the frame material (the lower part of nearly all have been replaced) and 90% of the planking. I pulled out a Yanmar 1GM and put in a 2GM with a fixed three blade prop (the winds around here aren't the greatest.) Would love to hear from other crazy rebuilders out there.

==============================================================
Subj: Far Eastern 29 in Olympia, WA
Date: 1/11/2003 11:18:41 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: TerryWatness
To: THAschman

Great to see this site up and running. Would love to connect with other H-28 owners in Washington State. Am in my 6th year of total reconstruction! Might get it in the water before 2004!

==============================================================
Subj: Fixing up an old H-29
Date: 1/11/2003 9:12:34 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: dl-dawson_at_rcn.com (David Dawson)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Theo,

Hi, I've been looking for information on H-28s, and of course quickly found your website. We have an H-28 that needs lots of cosmetic work, but is bascially sound, but I do have some questions I thought you might be able to help me with.

First, let me give you a little background. I'm a volunteer with the Kalmar Nykel Foundation in Wilmington, Del. Our main mission is to maintain and sail a reproduction of the Kalmar Nyckel, a 300-ton, 17th Century Dutch pinnace. The ship is just starting its sixth season, she sails out of Delaware, but travels up and down the East Coast from early spring to late fall.

At any rate, we have a couple of hundred volunteers who work on all aspects of the program, and a surprising number of them have very little or no sailing experience. (When they start, most don't know what it means to tack a boat - and they first time they do it, they're in a 139-foot square rigger!) Also, a good deal of the summer the ship is away, so if the volunteers aren't on board cruising, they don't have a lot to do.

To fix this, we've acquired (a donation, of course) an H-28. The idea is to use the boat to familiarize people with limited sailing experience with the basics and, if they're interested, teach them how to sail well enough to take the boat out by themselves. We'll also make it available for longer trips for volunteers who prove they are capable enough. (I don't know if you're familiar with this area, but it's a short hop from Wilmington, through the C&D canal, to the top end of the Chesapeake. Or you can make a beeline down Delaware Bay to the Cape May/Lewes area.)

I don't have a lot of information on this particular boat, except that it was built around 1978. Some work looks professional-- the hull itself and other main structural members, to the extent I've been able to examine it -- but a lot of the finishing work is amateur, including the interior cabinet work and the cabin top (it may have been built with to the original design with the low cabin and later changed to create standing headroom). It has wood spars that look good, and the masthead jibstay has been fitted.

So here are a few questions:

1: The rig is all out of tune. Area there specific recommendations for stay and shroud tensions?

2: The cabintop was fiberglassed, but the glass has since cracked - seriously so in places. Is it worth trying to add another layer of glass or should we replace the entire top? (I've tried separating glass from wood before. Unless there's a trick I don't know, it does more harm than good.) Is dynel a smarter choice?

3: The hull was given some sort of an epoxy coating, but it is not glassed. At any rate, there is just one very minor leak round about where the keel meets the transom. I'm told this is not an uncommon problem, but that area is hard to get at in this boat. Any suggestions? Just live with it?

4: It strikes me as a very good boat for our intended purposes. We'll probably be going out with three to five people for a few hours at a time for the orientation/training sessions. And we'll get the four berths, galley and head in order for the overnight cruises. Any thoughts about using an H-28 for this kind of activity?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or information you can pass along,

Regards,
Dave Dawson

==============================================================
Subj: H-28 "Hornpipe"
Date: 1/7/2003 6:18:25 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: jfioren1_at_maine.rr.com (Jackie Fiorentino)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Sir, I am writing to try and track down the Hornpipe. She was an H-28 owned by my father Dr. Horacio Lichter of Auburn, Maine who died last year. She was white with a teak deck moored at Robon Hood Marina, Georgetown, ME as well as Freeport and Camden. My father sold it around 1970 to whom I do not know. I saw it once around 1978 in a barn in Bridgton, ME. I was told that it was later put on a lake and sunk but was fixed and raised??? I am extremely interested in the history of this boat and would like to track it down possibly to buy if in good condition. please contact me with any info.

Christian Lichter: maclicht_at_momo2000.com

==============================================================
Subj: How Do We Join?
Date: 1/3/2003 9:57:52 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: peterfrench_at_msn.com (Peter French)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hi Theo,

My wife and I own a H-28 built by the Parkins yard in 1983 and now lying Marion, MA in the summer.

We would be interested in joining your Association.

Also, we'd be interested in help with the following: Our boat has a BMW single cylinder RWC diesel, Model D12H101-151 which is a 12 hp. engine (geared to a Hurth HBW-50). We wondered if there is any mechanic in this part of the country capable of working on this engine. (It runs like a hero, but does not put out a charge... we've replaced everything externally, but now know the engine has internal stators and these have to be replaced... which entails an engine haul out. I'm hesitant to start the process with a mechanic who has never done this before.) BMW is of no help... it appears BMW had the engine badged BMW, but it was built by a Dutch company. I'm guessing a new Yanmar is the way to go, but that's a lot of money... $10K to $12K the last time I checked... and the BMW runs like a hero... seems a shame to toss it. But the solar panels fail to keep up with the battery charging... even though we use them for nothing more than starting and running the engine.

Best wishes,
Peter

Peter N. French, President
P.N. French Associates, Inc.
126 Nowell Farme Road
Carlisle, MA 01741
978.369.1425

==============================================================
Subj: H 28 hull for sale
Date: 1/2/2003 2:00:44 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: janb_at_janmurray.com (Jan Murray)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Hello!

I am a Sydney-sider with the hull, masts, rigging, sails (everything but a cabin) of a beautiful H28 called "Search". Her sail number is H2. She is the second one built. My shipwright partner and I rescued her from a shipyard closed down by a greedy developer. However, we cannot afford to carry out the restoration now as our own (Lyle Hess 30ft) boat requires work.

This is a fire sale! Would your association have Australian links I might use to publish the availability of the H 28 "Search"?

regards,

JAN MURRAY

==============================================================
Subj: thanks
Date: 1/3/2003 6:01:10 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: gloster_at_powerup.com.au (dr michael gloster)
To: THAschman_at_aol.com

Theo, Thanks for updating the site - I always find it informative. Cheers,
Michael Gloster

==============================================================